Why we need to talk about food fraud

We don’t talk about this enough, but food fraud is rampant in Ireland and it really brings the rage upon me. The European Commission defines food fraud as “a non-compliance concerning any suspected intentional action by businesses or individuals, for the purpose of deceiving purchasers and gaining undue advantage therefrom”.

What that rubbish jargon means is if a restaurant, café or business advertises that they are using a certain artisanal ingredient on their menu when they actually aren’t, they are committing fraud. When a vendor at a farmers market says their veggies are local but they aren’t, that’s fraud too. Even local producers can be guilty of fraud when they say they are using a particular ingredient or grade of ingredient when they are using something generic.

Small producers say food fraud has gotten worse – not better – since the pandemic, despite our Covid-lead love of veggie boxes and local cheeses. When they know fraud is being committed, they don’t want to call out individuals or businesses for fear of damaging professional relationships or bringing bad press upon themselves.

Times are tough in the food and hospitality industry, but restaurants, cafés, hotels and many other businesses benefit from featuring local producers on their menus and in their ingredient lists. It shows the consumer they care about the local economy and support farmers. There is currently no way of policing food fraud, but the Food Safety Authority of Ireland (FSAI) is working on their Irish Food Fraud Strategic Assessment (IFFSA), which will be the first of its kind in Ireland. The first goal is to set an understanding of all current and possible food fraud threats in Ireland.

If you believe small producers (and I do), the amount of food fraud happening in Ireland right now, even by high-end establishments, is enough to make your toes curl – and it needs to stop.

Tasty tours in the Comeraghs

Food producers, farmers and foragers are teaming up to deliver a real ‘taste of place’ experience in the Comeragh region.

While a “Mountain Splendour Taste Tour” sounds the tiniest bit notion-ey, I must admit I am tempted to follow the trail. Led by Taste Waterford, there are three scheduled in the coming months (19 July, 23 August and 27 September).

Food producers, farmers and foragers are teaming up to deliver a real ‘taste of place’ experience in the Comeragh region. The scenery alone is worth the trip but throw in some good local grub, and you have the recipe for one satisfied Maître D’.

The guided tours start at 10am and depart from The Granville Hotel in Waterford’s city centre. It delves into the unique landscape and life on the mountains; including folklore, heritage and the foods found and produced there. After visiting farms and natural highlights, you’ll finish at a converted barn café known as ‘Cooney’s Yard’ where you’ll be treated to a lunch of seasonal produce. Tickets are available at €110 per person (including lunch and transport).

• tastewaterford.ie

Ireland's favourite brands

Kantar has released its 2024 Ireland Brand Footprint report.

Kantar has released its 2024 Ireland Brand Footprint report with no big surprises, says I. In terms of what Irish shoppers are putting in their baskets, Brennan’s bread has taken the number one spot, followed closely by Avonmore, Tayto, Cadbury’s Dairy Milk and Jacob’s.

It made me think about my big weekly shop and which big brands I am personally committed to. In an ideal world, every food professional would love to live solely on foods found within their proximity: freshly baked sourdough breads; vibrant green vegetables; meats from the local butcher; and ethically hand-crafted chocolate.

In reality, we buy the big brands, just like everybody else. Sure, my kids wouldn’t be caught dead with sourdough or ethical chocolate in their lunchboxes. They’d be the laughing stock of the school. Each week, through gritted teeth, I buy their favourite mass-produced sliced pan for their sad little sandwiches.

Maybe someday Kantar will come up with the ‘top alternative Irish brands of 2024’. I wonder which artisanal Irish foods are most frequently found in our kitchens. My guess would be some kind of condiment, craft beers or a local brand of crisps.

Two Green Shoots

Two Green Shoots, who operate an edible garden on the Beara Peninsula, have launched a new nature-based series called ‘Taste the Wild’.

During the warmer months I will make any excuse to make the journey to west Cork; especially if there is food involved. Two Green Shoots, who operate an edible garden on the Beara Peninsula, have launched a new nature-based series called ‘Taste the Wild’.

This will see some local food heroes like Sally Barnes (Woodcock Smokery), Caitlin Ruth (chef and author of FUNKY from Blasta Books) and Terra Ignis (fermentation specialist) setting up camp in their woodland kitchen in Glengarriff for guided sessions and meals.

They have also launched their new ‘Forage, Feast and Paddle’ package, which is a collaboration with Outdoors Ireland (who offer guided kayaking tours of Glengarriff Bay). If you’re travelling from afar (and, let’s face it, most people are quite far from the Beara Peninsula), they have also partnered with Wild Atlantic Glamping for their ‘A Taste of Beara’ adventure which will include two nights’ accommodation on nearby Bere Island.

Look, wild foods and glamping might not be everyone’s cupan tae, but there’s something satisfying about eating outside on a summer’s day – and west Cork tends to bring out the natural wildness in people, if you know what I mean.

• Book online at twogreenshoots.com

Head North

Ursa Minor. \ Philip Doyle

One of the most innovative bakeries on the island of Ireland is found in the cute seaside village of Ballycastle, Co Antrim and your Maitre D’ loves it so much she will make any excuse to head North for a visit.

Ursa Minor is a little bakery with a whole lot of heart, thanks to the passion that owner Ciara O’hArtghaile has for wholesome, Irish ingredients. Now, she is launching her new baking school which will be attached to the bakery.

In September, classes will begin with Ciara’s own lessons (Sourdough in a Day; Irish Patisserie) and classes featuring guest chefs. Ultimately, Ciara wants to teach a holistic approach to Irish food – something she calls the “soil to soul” connection. I say if it includes her choux buns and brioche, she can teach me anything she wants.

• Find Ursa Minor on Instagram @ursaminorbakehouse.

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Spilling the tea with Maitre D'

Spilling the tea with Maitre D'