The summer holidays are here – for secondary school students at least, although there are a few State exams still going on. One of the changes that we have made in recent years is that MacNean House & Restaurant closes for two weeks in June.
Traditionally, chefs take their holidays in January, after the Christmas rush, when things have quietened down. However, many of our team have families and school-going children so this is their time to get a break away and recharge the batteries.
Of course, it is also a great time for myself and Amelda to have some downtime with our twins, Connor and Lucia and we really value this time together.
When the restaurant is empty, we also like to do a bit of maintenance work so the place is looking its best when our guests return.
This time out from the restaurant also gives me a bit of breathing space to think about upcoming projects. This is the time of year when I sit down with David Hare and his team to plan our next RTÉ television series.
I am really excited for this next series, where we will be visiting some of our neighbouring chefs on a short trip across the water to the UK – this will be a first for our programme, and I am really looking forward to getting back to filming.
This week, I am sharing some sweet and summery flavours to enjoy with friends and family. The first recipe, my summer fruit trifle, was featured at Bloom and it really went down a treat.
I used Pat Clark’s fruit, which is always first class. Because we’re not cooking the berries in this recipe, per se, it’s so important to use the very best fruit you can find, and preferably while it’s in season, as we are right now with strawberries.
This trifle recipe is a slight variation on the fabulous sherry trifle my mum, Vera, often made while we were growing up. The shortbread biscuits are a great addition, because while they soften in the fruity cordial sauce, they also retain a slight crunch. It adds great texture to the overall dessert.
If you want to switch things up, you can use Des Jeffares blackcurrant cordial instead of the rhubarb and raspberry. Des makes the cordial on his family farm in Co Wexford, from his own fruit. It’s a fantastic product.
For custard, you can’t go wrong with the Simply Better vanilla custard, which is made by Spice O’Life in Dunmanway, Co Cork. Interestingly, Dunmanway is also home to the West Cork Biscuit Company, who make the shortbread biscuits I like to use in this recipe.
Really, this is just summer in a glass – at least, that’s how I like to think of it. And this trifle comes together so easily, no one need be afraid to attempt it. Marty Whelan made it with me on his Lyric FM programme in front of a live audience, so if he can do it – anyone can! In fact, after about 20 years of practise, I think he is beginning to improve.
The second recipe this week is based on a French classic: the crème brûlée. However, it has a bit of a tropical twist with the addition of the coconut milk. This recipe is a variation of one given to me by Lea Linster, who has been a great friend ever since I worked in her restaurant in Luxembourg, as a young chef. Lea is a fabulous chef and still the only woman ever to have won the Bocuse D’Or (which is kind of like the Olympics, but for chefs).
I love the deep flavour of coconut, and the creaminess it adds to this already-creamy recipe. It’s a really nice twist.
I think it’s always worth making the crème brûlée a day ahead and keeping it well-chilled in the fridge.
This dessert is so impressive; it’s fun to serve, delicious and such a crowd-pleaser. Enjoy!
Sweet summer fruit trifle
Ingredients:
Serves 4-6
300ml Raspberry and rhubarb cordial
1 cinnamon stick
300g mixed summer berries (such as strawberries, blackberries, blueberries and raspberries)
1 tsp vanilla extract
150ml cream
Finely grated rind of 1 orange
450g carton fresh vanilla bean custard
195g packet shortbread biscuits
Cocoa powder, to dust
2–3 amaretti biscuits
Method
1 Put the cordial into a pan with the cinnamon stick. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes until reduced by half and slightly thickened.
2 Place the mixed berries in a heatproof bowl and pour over the cordial mixture, and add the vanilla. Stir to combine and leave to cool.
3 Remove the cinnamon stick from the marinated berries, and spoon into some nice serving glasses, reserving the liquid.
4 Whip the cream in a bowl until it forms soft peaks and set aside until needed.
5 In a separate bowl, fold the orange rind into the custard until evenly combined.
6 Crumble the shortbread biscuits over the marinated berries, then pour over a little of the reserved liquid. Spoon over the custard mixture and dollop or pipe the whipped cream on top.
7 Chill for 1 hour, then add a light dusting of cocoa powder and top with the amaretti biscuits on top to serve. Keep in the fridge covered with cling film for up to 3 days.
Neven's coconut crème brûlée. \ Philip Doyle
Ingredients:
Serves 6-8
8 egg yolks
120g caster sugar
1 vanilla pod, split in half and seeds
scraped out
400ml cream
400ml coconut milk
2 tsp sugar, to glaze
Method
1 Preheat the oven to 110°C.
2 Place the egg yolks in a large bowl with 125g of the sugar and the vanilla seeds. Whisk for about 5 minutes, until the mixture is pale and fluffy and holds the trail of a figure 8.
3 Meanwhile, place the cream and coconut milk in a pan with the scraped-out vanilla pod, and simmer gently until the mixture just comes to the boil. Remove the vanilla pod, then slowly pour the hot cream into the yolk mixture, whisking continuously. Pass through a sieve into a clean bowl.
4 Using a ladle, divide the mixture into 8 x 125ml small dishes or ramekins set in a baking tin filled with enough boiling water to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins (this is called a bain marie). Bake in the oven for 1 hour, until just set but still with a slight wobble in the middle. Remove from the oven and leave in the bain-marie for another 30 minutes before removing and allowing to cool completely.
5 Transfer to the fridge and allow to set for at least 6 hours, or preferably overnight. To finish the brûlées, sprinkle each one with about 2 teaspoons of sugar in an even layer and use a blow torch to melt and glaze the sugar until caramelised. Arrange on plates.
Read more
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The summer holidays are here – for secondary school students at least, although there are a few State exams still going on. One of the changes that we have made in recent years is that MacNean House & Restaurant closes for two weeks in June.
Traditionally, chefs take their holidays in January, after the Christmas rush, when things have quietened down. However, many of our team have families and school-going children so this is their time to get a break away and recharge the batteries.
Of course, it is also a great time for myself and Amelda to have some downtime with our twins, Connor and Lucia and we really value this time together.
When the restaurant is empty, we also like to do a bit of maintenance work so the place is looking its best when our guests return.
This time out from the restaurant also gives me a bit of breathing space to think about upcoming projects. This is the time of year when I sit down with David Hare and his team to plan our next RTÉ television series.
I am really excited for this next series, where we will be visiting some of our neighbouring chefs on a short trip across the water to the UK – this will be a first for our programme, and I am really looking forward to getting back to filming.
This week, I am sharing some sweet and summery flavours to enjoy with friends and family. The first recipe, my summer fruit trifle, was featured at Bloom and it really went down a treat.
I used Pat Clark’s fruit, which is always first class. Because we’re not cooking the berries in this recipe, per se, it’s so important to use the very best fruit you can find, and preferably while it’s in season, as we are right now with strawberries.
This trifle recipe is a slight variation on the fabulous sherry trifle my mum, Vera, often made while we were growing up. The shortbread biscuits are a great addition, because while they soften in the fruity cordial sauce, they also retain a slight crunch. It adds great texture to the overall dessert.
If you want to switch things up, you can use Des Jeffares blackcurrant cordial instead of the rhubarb and raspberry. Des makes the cordial on his family farm in Co Wexford, from his own fruit. It’s a fantastic product.
For custard, you can’t go wrong with the Simply Better vanilla custard, which is made by Spice O’Life in Dunmanway, Co Cork. Interestingly, Dunmanway is also home to the West Cork Biscuit Company, who make the shortbread biscuits I like to use in this recipe.
Really, this is just summer in a glass – at least, that’s how I like to think of it. And this trifle comes together so easily, no one need be afraid to attempt it. Marty Whelan made it with me on his Lyric FM programme in front of a live audience, so if he can do it – anyone can! In fact, after about 20 years of practise, I think he is beginning to improve.
The second recipe this week is based on a French classic: the crème brûlée. However, it has a bit of a tropical twist with the addition of the coconut milk. This recipe is a variation of one given to me by Lea Linster, who has been a great friend ever since I worked in her restaurant in Luxembourg, as a young chef. Lea is a fabulous chef and still the only woman ever to have won the Bocuse D’Or (which is kind of like the Olympics, but for chefs).
I love the deep flavour of coconut, and the creaminess it adds to this already-creamy recipe. It’s a really nice twist.
I think it’s always worth making the crème brûlée a day ahead and keeping it well-chilled in the fridge.
This dessert is so impressive; it’s fun to serve, delicious and such a crowd-pleaser. Enjoy!
Sweet summer fruit trifle
Ingredients:
Serves 4-6
300ml Raspberry and rhubarb cordial
1 cinnamon stick
300g mixed summer berries (such as strawberries, blackberries, blueberries and raspberries)
1 tsp vanilla extract
150ml cream
Finely grated rind of 1 orange
450g carton fresh vanilla bean custard
195g packet shortbread biscuits
Cocoa powder, to dust
2–3 amaretti biscuits
Method
1 Put the cordial into a pan with the cinnamon stick. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes until reduced by half and slightly thickened.
2 Place the mixed berries in a heatproof bowl and pour over the cordial mixture, and add the vanilla. Stir to combine and leave to cool.
3 Remove the cinnamon stick from the marinated berries, and spoon into some nice serving glasses, reserving the liquid.
4 Whip the cream in a bowl until it forms soft peaks and set aside until needed.
5 In a separate bowl, fold the orange rind into the custard until evenly combined.
6 Crumble the shortbread biscuits over the marinated berries, then pour over a little of the reserved liquid. Spoon over the custard mixture and dollop or pipe the whipped cream on top.
7 Chill for 1 hour, then add a light dusting of cocoa powder and top with the amaretti biscuits on top to serve. Keep in the fridge covered with cling film for up to 3 days.
Neven's coconut crème brûlée. \ Philip Doyle
Ingredients:
Serves 6-8
8 egg yolks
120g caster sugar
1 vanilla pod, split in half and seeds
scraped out
400ml cream
400ml coconut milk
2 tsp sugar, to glaze
Method
1 Preheat the oven to 110°C.
2 Place the egg yolks in a large bowl with 125g of the sugar and the vanilla seeds. Whisk for about 5 minutes, until the mixture is pale and fluffy and holds the trail of a figure 8.
3 Meanwhile, place the cream and coconut milk in a pan with the scraped-out vanilla pod, and simmer gently until the mixture just comes to the boil. Remove the vanilla pod, then slowly pour the hot cream into the yolk mixture, whisking continuously. Pass through a sieve into a clean bowl.
4 Using a ladle, divide the mixture into 8 x 125ml small dishes or ramekins set in a baking tin filled with enough boiling water to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins (this is called a bain marie). Bake in the oven for 1 hour, until just set but still with a slight wobble in the middle. Remove from the oven and leave in the bain-marie for another 30 minutes before removing and allowing to cool completely.
5 Transfer to the fridge and allow to set for at least 6 hours, or preferably overnight. To finish the brûlées, sprinkle each one with about 2 teaspoons of sugar in an even layer and use a blow torch to melt and glaze the sugar until caramelised. Arrange on plates.
Read more
Neven Maguire: lamb chop ...and change
Neven Maguire: clucking good summer food
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