The weather outside the window of Árd Einne, our bed and breakfast on Inis Mór, is just what you might expect for an island off the coast of the Wild Atlantic Way: grey and drizzly, with a thick sheen of fog.

Lucky for me and my 10-year-old daughter Ciara, who is joining me on a rare weekend getaway, we are just about to tuck into one of owner Clodagh’s hearty breakfasts – scrambled egg, sausage, rashers and enough hot tea to stave off the chill.

Perhaps not-so-lucky?

“Your bikes will be dropped over in 10 minutes,” Clodagh quips as she brings us a basket of homemade brown bread and scones, warm from the oven.

Another quick glance out the window and I am tempted to stay at Árd Einne (ardeinne.com) for the day. But, sure, we came to Inis Mór for an adventure, not to sit around. The island beckoned; dampness be damned.

We had arrived the previous day, courtesy of Aran Islands Ferries (aranislandferries.com), to meet some food producers, sight-see and experience rural island life on a first-hand basis. My daughter was delighted on the ferry trip over, especially when the captain indulged us with a visit to the cabin. He let her sit in the captain’s seat, we came into port and the crew regaled us with maritime tales.

Clodagh spends plenty of time explaining the best routes for sightseeing; helping us organise our day, providing bottles of water and a towel for wiping the seats of our bikes.

With our raincoats zipped, we meet Aran Islands Bike Hire (aranislandsbikehire.com) as they drop off what will be our only mode of transportation for the next 48 hours.

I’m not going to lie – this is daunting. I haven’t properly ridden a bike in decades, and while Ciara knows how to ride a bike, she hasn’t had much regular practise. From previous visits, I know that Inis Mór is the largest of the three Aran Islands. I am not sure I am in good enough shape to ride my bike all over the island.

Captain Ciara has a nice ring to it - she enjoyed sitting in the captain's seat as the ferry docked in Kilronan. \ Philip Doyle

We begin our first leg into Kilronan, the main village on the island, which is where the ferry lands and where you will find a Spar shop, the bike hire shop and some pubs and restaurants.

It is a mere 10-minute bike ride to the village from our bed and breakfast, and my daughter complains most of the way. A stop at a local café for a fortifying cup of tea provides the energy and courage to keep going. We back-track a small bit; making our way to Dún Dúchathair – the Black Fort – which is thousands of years old and eerily beautiful to encounter. Once you park your bike, the hike takes about an hour and is not too steep– a good one for kids.

After our hike, Ciara and I find our groove with the bikes and, as the rain stops, we really start to enjoy this mode of transport. However, we make a mistake when deciding to ride to Kilmurvy Beach from Kilronan (about 6km in distance). There are two possible routes to get here via bicycle – the green route, or the red.

You’ll often find a warm fireplace and Irish stew on the menu. The scones are fresh and the tea is strong at Teach Nan Phaidi cottage

As we discover, the red route is more difficult, we spend a lot of time pushing our bikes uphill and stopping to allow traffic pass us.

When we arrive, there is no cosier spot for lunch than the family-run Teach Nan Phaidi cottage, just down from Kilmurvy beach. Inside, you’ll often find a warm fireplace and Irish stew on the menu. The scones are fresh and the tea is strong.

If seafood is your thing, you won’t find fresher or tastier than next door at the Aran Seafood Café. Operated by Niamh, whose husband is a fisherman, the seafood is caught and processed in their own unit before being sold in the food truck. We order a lobster roll and crab roll (around €20 each) on our visit. Their freshly-fried chunky chips are the perfect accompaniment – especially after such a long bike ride.

We take the green route back to Kilronan and are delighted that, as grey and dreary as the day began, the afternoon brings bright blue skies and warm sunshine. The green route is fun – it takes you along the stunning coastline, and as it is seaside, it is less hilly and makes for a much easier ride.

The crab roll at Aran Seafood Cafe is loaded with freshly caught crab, veggies and served in a soft, buttery roll.

Back in KIlronan, we check in to our new accommodation for the night: Aran Island Glamping (irelandglamping.ie). We make ourselves at home in our four-person pod and search for seashells and rocks along the site’s white sand beach. There is a sauna on-site and, though we didn’t pack any togs, there are plenty of guests making use of the facilities after a chilly sea swim.

Dinner is a feed of fish and chips at Joe Watty’s bar (joewattys.ie), a quick hike up the hill from the glamping site. I indulge in an ice-cold pint of local Connemara Brewery ale while my young companion is treated to an ice cream sundae for dessert. Inis Mór locals are warm and welcoming – after two days here, I am beginning to think hospitality is spliced into their DNA.

The next morning, after a cosy sleep in our glamping pod, we bike into the village for some breakfast. We are leaving today, but are booked into a later ferry crossing, which means more time to explore.

We took a traditional horse and buggy ride around the island. With warm wool blankets and plenty to see as we amble by, this is relaxing for two ladies who have been watching the road all weekend.

After another cosy lunch at Teach Nan Phaidi, we make our way back to the ferry terminal where we drop off our rental bikes and greet the captain and crew of Aran Islands Ferries like old friends. In just three days, my daughter and I have made lasting memories.

Factfile

  • Aran Island Ferries operate ferries (foot passengers only) between Inis Mór and Rosaveel, Connemara (with parking). They also operate ferry service from Galway city. There are several sailings per day during high season and also go to Inis Meáin and Inis Oírr.
  • You should book accommodation well in advance as hotels, guesthouses and the glamping site book up quickly, especially during the summer. Peak season prices start at around €140 per night.
  • Taxi services are available in limited supply. Your accommodation host can provide you with taxi contacts, in case you are stranded. If you are able, Inis Mór is easily explored by bike. Aran Islands Bike Hire offers daily rates of €20 per adult and €10 per child. They provide helmets and offer electric bikes.
  • Janine was a guest of Aran Islands Ferries