Seine-sational way to discover Paris

As the MS Jane Austen glides along the Seine, the Eiffel Tower shimmers in the distance, and the Parisian light dances across the water. The soft strains of Edith Piaf’s La Vie en Rose drift from my phone, and I think – this is Paris, exactly as I dreamed it would be.

It’s my first evening with Riviera Travel, for a four-day Paris and Seine Discovery River Cruise. It’s a first on many levels – this cruise is a taster, a seasonal introduction designed to give guests a flavour of river cruising. For me, it’s my maiden voyage in the world of river cruising and already, I’m falling in love. Classic Paris.

The day begins with a one-hour 20-minute flight from Dublin with Air France. On arrival at Charles de Gaulle Airport, the Riviera Travel representative guided us to our private transfer.

Just 40 minutes later, we arrived at the boat – my quarters for the next few nights.

The 140-passenger vessel began life in 2015 and had an upgrade in 2024, so the space still has that new feel. With lots of shiny surfaces, marble flooring, crystal chandeliers and a wrought-iron staircase, there was plenty to take in – and that was just the lobby. The rest of the floating hotel is sumptuous with cosy nooks and convivial spaces just perfect for reading a book or sipping a glass of wine or in my case, both.

Warm welcome

Everything so far was thoughtfully arranged to put guests at ease, from the warm welcome of the crew as we stepped on board, to an assigned crew member – who carried luggage to the room, showed us around the boat, and gave a tour of the cabin.

As I settled in, unpacked my trusty Barry’s Tea, and pulled back the curtains, I found it hard to believe that I was actually on a boat. The French balcony-style doors made the space feel surprisingly roomy – something I’d been slightly anxious about beforehand. I’m not claustrophobic, but the idea of staying in a small cabin for three nights had me unsure. But I could’ve happily sat with the doors open all evening, watching the world glide by.

As this was my first time travelling solo in over 12 years, I was also a little apprehensive. I’m used to holidaying with my partner, so going it alone on this adventure felt a little strange. However, as Jane Austen herself once said: “If adventures will not befall a young lady in her own village, she must seek them abroad.”

But adventures had to wait until the tea was made and I had taken in my surroundings before venturing on deck. My cabin was a pleasant surprise with plenty of room. It contained a standard double bed, bedside table and lamp, and was of a good size. It included tea and coffee making facilities, air conditioning, a TV, and plenty of closet space. The bathroom contained premium toiletries and powerful water pressure, so far, so impressed.

Once settled, I took a turn about the ship – but there was only one thing I wanted to see. I made my way to the upper deck, just above my quarters in the Diamond Deck, and lo and behold – there she was: The Eiffel Tower, standing proud in the distance.

Moored in Port Issy-Les-Moulineaux, Paris, with sunshine overhead and a cold beer in hand, chatting to fellow travellers – it was ‘simplement magnifique’. The upper deck also had plenty of tables and chairs, and sunbeds for relaxing as you cruise.

Meals onboard were a delight. Breakfast, lunch and dinner vary each day, so you never get bored with the options. It also helps the appetite when you are surrounded by stunning panoramic views.

The extensive dinner menu featured delicious regional dishes like Boeuf Bourguignon, made with fresh, local ingredients, beautifully paired with regional wines. After dinner, a little port and cheese made their way to the table. I’ve now decided it might just be my new favourite pairing. Pure joie de vivre.

After dinner, the onboard musician José played us into the evening, but I couldn’t miss the main event. The Eiffel Tower starts twinkling at 10pm, and that sparkle waits for no woman. Drink in hand, I made my way to the top deck and, as I stood there in awe watching the illuminated Tower and the rotating search beam dancing in the night sky, I decided river cruising might just be my new favourite way to travel.

It was time to turn in – I left the curtains slightly open, wanting to wake up to the soft motion of the river as we sailed toward Conflans in the early morning hours for day two.

Taking in the scenery of the lower Seine valley as we cruised toward Conflans-Sainte-Honorine was mind-blowing. I don’t think I’ve ever enjoyed being so ‘still’ in my life, while moving at the same time.

Breakfast is served in the restaurant, and there is quite an extensive menu, so it sets you up for the day.

The morning was leisurely, and it really felt like the world was moving at much slower pace. I thought I would hate that because I never stop, but I enjoyed the change. I explored some more of the boat before retiring with Edith and her music to my room for a morning of gentle staring at scenery.

For lunch, it’s relaxed again as people move around and sit beside other guests, so you are never truly alone, which is nice for those travelling alone. Passengers are made up of retired couples, groups of friends, midlife couples, and some solo travellers – it’s a really nice mix of mostly Irish and British passengers.

We had made our way to Port de Paris, Conflans-Sainte-Honorine, where we would moor for the night and have our first outing of the trip. The package offers excursions every day after lunch, but guests are welcome to stay onboard. Today, we were heading to the town of Auvers-sur-Oise, the village where Vincent van Gogh spent the final 70 days of his life. One I was definitely not going to miss.

On we Van Gogh

This charming village, renowned for its connection to Van Gogh, was a source of inspiration for the artist. Château d’Auvers showcases the Van Gogh exhibition, and it’s as beautiful as you would imagine.

Afterwards, we headed to the graveyard where Van Gogh and his brother Theo are buried. Vincent was just 37 when he died, and his brother Theo died within months. They are buried side by side in a humble graveyard in Auvers.

The last stop on our tour was Auberge Ravoux for a little refreshment at Vincent’s favourite drinking spot. We passed on the absinthe and opted for a local beer. Sitting where he sat all those years ago is a memory that will live long.

Back on board, a welcome cocktail greeted us. You could choose between a light buffet in La Brasserie or a full three-course dinner in the restaurant – we opted for the latter as it had been quite a full day of activities, and we needed fuel for the general knowledge and music quiz later – an entertaining way to end our day.

Setting sail for our final day – the boat is so quiet and still that you hardly notice you are moving.

We later opted to head into the heart of the city. Paris dazzled. From the majestic Notre-Dame to the iconic Shakespeare & Company bookshop, we wandered along the Seine until a family-run jewellery shop caught my eye and lured me inside with a glittering display – Jeanne Danjou et Rousselet, If anyone is shopping for me.

The last evening features the chef’s dinner, and it didn’t disappoint. Chef Dimitar Astanasov served up a stunning array of food, and one dish in particular stood out: the Wild Forest Mushroom Wellington with creamed spinach and roasted potatoes, which we all agreed was the dish of the trip.

A strawberry and chocolate mousse followed for dessert, with our now-customary cheese board and port.

The chef came around the entire restaurant and, stopping by our table he told us about his love for Ireland – his son was conceived in Co Cork, so he visits whenever he can.

One of Riviera Travel’s real strengths is its meticulous organisation. Passengers receive a handy pre-cruise travel pack including an itinerary.

If, like me, you have never experienced cruising, this is the perfect way to dip your toes into river travel. No stress, no rushing around, just good food, great views, and the gentle joy of watching the world go by – Seine-sational.