When gardeners talk about grass, it is assumed they are talking about their lawns. Nothing could be further from the truth as there are many grass species that also have a place in our ornamental gardens. I love grasses for many reasons, they have height, elegance and movement, interacting with the lightest breeze. They range from the very small to tall species and each have a role to play.
Taller grasses are used to create focal points or perhaps hide objects in the garden you wish to keep in the background like sheds or oil tanks. Smaller grasses create an edging to borders which are a permanent delineation of that space. Many are evergreen and others turn the colour of straw, which has its own charm.
The most impressive of all grasses is pampas grass, Cortaderia selloana, it is a real space-filler, perhaps too large for the smaller garden. My favourite is the smaller growing C. selloana ‘Pumila’, it forms a compact low-growing plant with arching grey-green foliage growing to a height of 1.2m which includes its silver white plumes. C. selloana ‘Gold Band’ is of equal height but has beautiful gold striped foliage adding colour to your planting scheme.
Flowering grasses
We use Miscanthus grass for its height as it has bulk and beauty in its foliage and flower. We do not think of grasses flowering, however, they do and in the case of Miscanthus they do so beautifully. Miscanthus sinensis ‘Cabaret’ is colourful with its striped green and cream leaves growing to a height of 2m followed in the autumn by what I describe as feather duster like flowers in silver white. M. sinensis ‘Red Chief’ is a smaller plant with narrow green foliage growing to a height of 1.5m, it has good yellow autumn. The flowers resemble rich red feather dusters held above the foliage.
Stipa gigantea, another grass needing space but well worth growing as its foliage grows to a metre in height, and its flower spikes explode like a firework display to 2.5m in height. Commonly called The Golden Oat Grass, it moves in the slightest breeze.
Panicum virgatum ‘Northwind’ is an upright grass to 1.5m tall, forming an upright clump of grey-green leaves throughout the summer giving good autumn colour of yellow and orange. It is a shy flowerer in my experience, however we grow it as it resembles an exclamation mark in the border. It works wonderfully in formal garden designs.
Lower growing in size is P. virgatum ‘Squaw’, it is a looser growing plant that blends nicely as a foil for other perennial plants. In late summer and through winter it is most striking when the flowers appear reddish-brown with orange foliage turning a straw colour for winter. It’s a wonderful plant.
Low growing
Grasses that create a low edge to other planting schemes are also worthwhile, they give permanence and structure. Festuca glauca is a low-growing tuft 30cm in height. It is silver grey in colour and best planted in groups for greater impact.
The highlight of our garden is the Hakone grass Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’. This is spectacular, forming low clumps of yellow foliage striped with green. Even brighter in colour is H. macra ‘All Gold’ and it is well described as it is bright yellow all summer. Both of these grasses turn a straw colour in winter continuing the interest and we wouldn’t be without them.
While ornamental grasses can take a year or two to establish, there are some annual grasses that can be sown directly where you want them to grow for this year. Lagurus ovatus, commonly called hare’s tail grass, it is well described as the flower spike looks just like that. It grows to 40cm and lasts all summer.
It also is a good plant to harvest and use for dried flower arrangements. Briza media, commonly called quaking grass, is also a good performer growing to 40cm in height. The small flower spike hangs on the stems and shakes in the breeze.
Managing grasses in your garden is relatively easy, they rarely require staking but need to be cut back before the onset of new growth in spring, ready to charm you through the summer to come.
When plants develop into large clumps, you can lift and divide in spring just as new growth is beginning to emerge.
Planting: Hardy annuals can be sown now in prepared ground that has a fine tilth.
Bulbs: Check all spring bulbs for seed heads remaining on plants and remove these. Prepare ground for planting gladiolus and lilies, so dig over the areas and ensure a fine tilth.
Vegetable garden: Sow beetroot, carrots, and radish in prepared ground. Sow carrots very thinly to avoid having to do a lot of thinning. This will help deterring carrot root fly.
Glasshouse: The glasshouse is by now getting overcrowded. Start putting plants outside to harden off, either bringing them back in before nightfall or covering them with fleece.
Q&A: How can I manage weed problems?
Use bark mulch to keep the weeds down. /istock
Every year I am overrun with weeds and it seems to be starting again this year. How can I manage this situation better? - Helen, Co Sligo
When you say you had a weed problem last year and if any of those weeds were flowering, in all probability you have been building up weed seeds in your soil as a result. These are poised to germinate as soon as soil starts to warm in spring.
I suggest you create a weed barrier with composted bark mulch available from a garden centre. Apply this 7cm thick over the area, but avoid laying it too close to your plant stems.
Alternatively, you could start a hoeing programme this year, however never let weeds flower as it will create more work for you.
When gardeners talk about grass, it is assumed they are talking about their lawns. Nothing could be further from the truth as there are many grass species that also have a place in our ornamental gardens. I love grasses for many reasons, they have height, elegance and movement, interacting with the lightest breeze. They range from the very small to tall species and each have a role to play.
Taller grasses are used to create focal points or perhaps hide objects in the garden you wish to keep in the background like sheds or oil tanks. Smaller grasses create an edging to borders which are a permanent delineation of that space. Many are evergreen and others turn the colour of straw, which has its own charm.
The most impressive of all grasses is pampas grass, Cortaderia selloana, it is a real space-filler, perhaps too large for the smaller garden. My favourite is the smaller growing C. selloana ‘Pumila’, it forms a compact low-growing plant with arching grey-green foliage growing to a height of 1.2m which includes its silver white plumes. C. selloana ‘Gold Band’ is of equal height but has beautiful gold striped foliage adding colour to your planting scheme.
Flowering grasses
We use Miscanthus grass for its height as it has bulk and beauty in its foliage and flower. We do not think of grasses flowering, however, they do and in the case of Miscanthus they do so beautifully. Miscanthus sinensis ‘Cabaret’ is colourful with its striped green and cream leaves growing to a height of 2m followed in the autumn by what I describe as feather duster like flowers in silver white. M. sinensis ‘Red Chief’ is a smaller plant with narrow green foliage growing to a height of 1.5m, it has good yellow autumn. The flowers resemble rich red feather dusters held above the foliage.
Stipa gigantea, another grass needing space but well worth growing as its foliage grows to a metre in height, and its flower spikes explode like a firework display to 2.5m in height. Commonly called The Golden Oat Grass, it moves in the slightest breeze.
Panicum virgatum ‘Northwind’ is an upright grass to 1.5m tall, forming an upright clump of grey-green leaves throughout the summer giving good autumn colour of yellow and orange. It is a shy flowerer in my experience, however we grow it as it resembles an exclamation mark in the border. It works wonderfully in formal garden designs.
Lower growing in size is P. virgatum ‘Squaw’, it is a looser growing plant that blends nicely as a foil for other perennial plants. In late summer and through winter it is most striking when the flowers appear reddish-brown with orange foliage turning a straw colour for winter. It’s a wonderful plant.
Low growing
Grasses that create a low edge to other planting schemes are also worthwhile, they give permanence and structure. Festuca glauca is a low-growing tuft 30cm in height. It is silver grey in colour and best planted in groups for greater impact.
The highlight of our garden is the Hakone grass Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’. This is spectacular, forming low clumps of yellow foliage striped with green. Even brighter in colour is H. macra ‘All Gold’ and it is well described as it is bright yellow all summer. Both of these grasses turn a straw colour in winter continuing the interest and we wouldn’t be without them.
While ornamental grasses can take a year or two to establish, there are some annual grasses that can be sown directly where you want them to grow for this year. Lagurus ovatus, commonly called hare’s tail grass, it is well described as the flower spike looks just like that. It grows to 40cm and lasts all summer.
It also is a good plant to harvest and use for dried flower arrangements. Briza media, commonly called quaking grass, is also a good performer growing to 40cm in height. The small flower spike hangs on the stems and shakes in the breeze.
Managing grasses in your garden is relatively easy, they rarely require staking but need to be cut back before the onset of new growth in spring, ready to charm you through the summer to come.
When plants develop into large clumps, you can lift and divide in spring just as new growth is beginning to emerge.
Planting: Hardy annuals can be sown now in prepared ground that has a fine tilth.
Bulbs: Check all spring bulbs for seed heads remaining on plants and remove these. Prepare ground for planting gladiolus and lilies, so dig over the areas and ensure a fine tilth.
Vegetable garden: Sow beetroot, carrots, and radish in prepared ground. Sow carrots very thinly to avoid having to do a lot of thinning. This will help deterring carrot root fly.
Glasshouse: The glasshouse is by now getting overcrowded. Start putting plants outside to harden off, either bringing them back in before nightfall or covering them with fleece.
Q&A: How can I manage weed problems?
Use bark mulch to keep the weeds down. /istock
Every year I am overrun with weeds and it seems to be starting again this year. How can I manage this situation better? - Helen, Co Sligo
When you say you had a weed problem last year and if any of those weeds were flowering, in all probability you have been building up weed seeds in your soil as a result. These are poised to germinate as soon as soil starts to warm in spring.
I suggest you create a weed barrier with composted bark mulch available from a garden centre. Apply this 7cm thick over the area, but avoid laying it too close to your plant stems.
Alternatively, you could start a hoeing programme this year, however never let weeds flower as it will create more work for you.
SHARING OPTIONS